Madhya Pradesh has countless attractions to offer to the tourists – forts, palaces, Hindu temples, Jain temples, mosques, most delicious diversity of food, art, and culture. In this article, we bring to limelight one of its most valuable offerings Mandana Art.
Mandana paintings are the wall and floor paintings traditionally done in Rajasthan and Madhya Pradesh, India. They are painted in homes to protect them, to draw health and wealth, to welcome gods into the house, for celebrations on festive occasions, etc. Similar paintings are also created in the most of the parts of Nepal and are called Mandala.
In Madhya Pradesh, the art is mostly used to decorate floors while in Rajasthan it is used both on walls and floors. The Village women in the Sawai Madhopur area of Rajasthan are known to possess the skill for developing simplistic designs to perfect symmetry and accuracy. The art has its roots in one of the oldest tribal communities of India, Meenas.
The word ‘Mandana’ in local languages means decoration, or more exactly, beautification. The resultant drawings are called Chitra Mandana – ‘Chitra’ here simply means drawing or painting.
The creation
The Mandana art can only be created on clay walls or floor. The ground that is to act as the canvas for Mandana art is first prepared with a mixture of cow dung, rati (which is a local clay), and red ochre. Lime and/or chalk powder is used for making the motif. The other tools used are a piece of cotton, a tuft of hair and/or a rudimentary brush which is made out of a date stick.
The Motifs
The motifs of the design include Lord Ganesha, peacocks, women at work, tigers, floral motifs, etc. Peacocks are the most frequently occurring and, one might claim, the signature motif of these works.
This love for repetition of these simple motifs, that seem to stand by themselves without trying to narrate any stories, puts in one’s mind Carl Gustav’s Jung’s theory and ideas about archetypes and archetypal symbols.
That said, it is not to say that Mandana art is closed to innovations. Over the years, the artists have introduced several new motifs – tractor, bus, bullock-cart, cycle, motorcycle, etc.
The simplicity of the motifs is also visible in the scheme of colors which are used to fill the drawings as the last step in completing the work. Normally as few as two colors are used – often red and white.
In some of them like tapki Ke Mandanas, the motifs are placed in a way to form a geometrical shape – a rhombus, a circle or a rectangle. This love for geometrically perfect shapes is once again something a Jungian could smile at.
Importance during festivals
The motifs are associated with good luck and are thus called ‘Shubh Manglik’ and survive in some regions only in celebration of some of the festivals. Teej is a semi-popular festival that often involves the use of Mandana art or some rudimentary form of it. Another popular example in which it survives is ‘rangoli’.
A dying art
Mandana art is dying and the artists are finding less and less employment even within villages as the number of concrete houses is on the increase and concrete is not receptive to this art which can only be created on walls of clay and anyway there are fewer takers of the art as it is.
There are many reasons to save this art. Its creation combines two qualities that rarely go together in most modern arts – simplicity and beauty.
Again, its use of natural material as its tools speaks highly of how eco-friendly our traditions were – and not to say inexpensive.
It is also a source of traditional employment for women in a country and community where employment for women was very rarely encouraged traditionally. There is something feminine about the aesthetic of the work itself. You won’t see a lot of warrior men in the works, for example; and motifs like peacocks and flowers are so much more attractive to women.
And the paintings no matter how simple is never without a part of the artist’s soul in it. A part of the artist’s life – and that of the artists that previously did the same work is contained in those works – telling us of their lives and experiences. The simplicity of such art forms as Mandana can be deceiving and might make an outsider consider it to bo be devoid of meaning when the very opposite is the truth.
Mandana art in new platforms
The Mandana art might be getting exiled from its home of centuries – the walls and floors of houses but it has found newer places to exist. One such place is the canvas. More and more painters are being inspired by Mandana art and streaming their art through the centuries-long language of expression developed over centuries by Mandana artists.
Another place it is getting its foothold on is fabrics. The traditional designs and artworks are increasingly getting trendy, thus giving a new place for Mandana art to survive.
Conclusion
We hope that Mandana art manages to find survivors in these forms if not in its traditional art. If you love the mesmerizing simplicity with which they strike one, please do consider buying some Mandana art worked goods and let us hope the art regains its old popularity. Cheers. J
History, culture, art, craft, Bollywood and natural beauty come together to create the unique experience one finds in the beautiful city of Maheshwar. A city as old as history and a bit more, it is considered to be the same as the ancient historical city Mahishmati.
The literal meaning of the name of the city, Maheshwar, means ‘the abode of Mahesh’. Mahesh, in turn, means ‘Great God’ and is a title given to Lord Shiva. Lord Shiva though is only one of the gods worshipped in hundreds of temples here which are of great spiritual importance to Hindus because of the city being mentioned in two great Hindu epics, Ramayana and Mahabharata.
If all this is not enough, the city has nationwide popularity for its Maheshwari Sarees. It is also the rural settings of this very little city which formed the backdrop in several Bollywood movies including ‘Pad-man’.
How to reach
The financial capital of Madhya Pradesh Indore is home to the airport nearest to Maheshwar and is just ninety kilometers away from Indore. We highly recommend taking a two day trip from Indore – first visiting another town of spiritual importance, Omkareshwar and then heading to Maheshwar which is just sixty-five kilometers away.
Where to stay
Maheshwar being a religious town is not lacking in the budget accommodation. A part of Ahilya Fort has been converted into a luxury hotel Fort Ahilya Heritage Hotel which is where we stayed. There is also an MP Tourism resort ‘Narmada Retreat’ at a distance of a mere one kilometer which offers a lovely view of the Narmada river. The lodging options don’t offer too great a variety here.
Best time to visit
Narmada Jayanti and Mahashivratri are two of the annual festivals that are celebrated with lots of passion in two towns of Omkareshwar and Maheshwar. During these seasons, they have their ghats adorned with lights and maha parties are performed at their ghats.
Best Places to see
Ahalya Fort
The Ahalya Fort is named after Rajmata Ahilya Devi Holkar. She is one of the most legendary rulers of the region. She is considered a saintly figure.
This fort which is the best landmark of the town of Maheshwar still stands in all its splendor on banks of Narmada. There are some beautiful carvings of elephants and scenes of daily life from times of Holkar rule including some images of dancers and musicians.
A part of the Ahalya fort has now been converted into a hotel while another part is not open to the public. That said, you get to see Ahilya dwar where the great queen held a public audience – almost daily, and attended to the grievances of her subjects.
We also saw some amazing portraits of Holkar rulers, arms, etc. The male rulers are shown with a sword in their hand but the queen Ahilyabai is shown carrying a Shiva linga in her hands and is adorned with a simple white sari – a symbol of her widowhood. According to a local legend, the queen despite her immense wealth had only three sarees – all of them white, all of them Maheshwari and all of them woven by herself. This legend besides the simplicity of the palace itself, so different from lush ways of palaces elsewhere in India show what a simple life the queen must have lived.
One of the artifacts on display here is famous for the cravings is the Chhatri (mausoleum) of Vitoji Rao Holkar, who was the younger brother of king Yashwant Rao Holkar. The artifact is Built on a high plinth and supports two bulbous domes.
Another artifact that caught our eye is Ahilyeshwar Shivalaya. Built like a Shiva temple, it is the chhatri of the queen Ahilya Bai Holkar and was built on orders of her daughter Krishna Bai
There is a museum within Ahalya Fort. Another division is the weaving center of Rehwa society. You can find and buy the popular Maheshwari sarees here.
The name of the society comes from Maa Rewa, a local name of the Narmada river. Richard Holkar of the Holkar dynasty and his wife Sally started this weaving project in order to create employment opportunities for the local women and in order to save the dying industry of Maheshwari sarees which now, thanks to the efforts of the project, has now regained the old popularity. The weavers have now diversified into other forms of clothes too – dupattas, scarves, shawls, etc. A Maheshwari saree is thus obviously a perfect souvenir from the town of Maheshwar.
Narmada Ghats
Maheshwar is home to twenty-eight ghats. The most important ones of these Ghats are Ahilya Ghat, Mahila Ghat, Peshwa Ghat, and Phanse Ghat. At Mahila Ghat, you will also get to see the artifact known as Laxmi Bai ki Chhatri – the chhatri of Ahilya Bais daughter, Krishna Bai
The Narmada river also avails you of boating adventures in its tranquil waters.
The Narmada river is itself the biggest attraction of both Maheshwar and Omkareshwar. Of the five most sacred rivers of India – Ganga, Yamuna, Narmada, Godavari, and Kaveri, Narmada has been considered the holiest. In fact, according to a local legend, when Ganga feels unclean, she takes the form of a black cow and arrives here under cover of darkness to cleanse herself in the waters of the Narmada. It is thus no wonder that countless pilgrimages pay a visit to the town to take a dip in the waters of the majestic river.
The Narmada river is also called Shankari which literally means the daughter of Shankar (Lord Shiva). According to a popular Hindu legend, she was borne out of a teardrop that fell out of Shiva’s eyes.
A local saying is Narmada ke kankar utte Shankar which means that Lord Shiva lives in each and every pebble on which the Narmada flows. This is particularly true in the case of river’s Ghats at Maheshwar as according to a local legend, it is believed to be the site ancient city of Somvanshya Shastrarjun Kshatriya. This ancient city was the capital of king Kartavirya Arjuna who is also known as Shree Shastrarjun and is mentioned in the Sanskrit epics Ramayana and Mahabharata. Shastraarjun is said to have given a humiliating defeat to Ravana according to a local legend. one day the King Sahasrarjun and his 500 wives were picnicking on banks of Narmada. When the wives wanted a vast play area, the King is said to have stopped the Narmada with his 1000 arms. Ravana, who was flying by in his Pushpak Vimana decided to worship Lord Shiva in the empty river beds and made a shivalinga out of the sand and began to pray. When Sahasrajuna’s wives were done playing, he let the waters flow which Ravanas shivalinga away. Angered by this, Ravana challenged Sahasrajuna who, accepting the challenge, gave him a humiliating defeat.
And at the banks of the river, you can still find cylindrical pebbles, locally called Banalingas because they look so much like shivalingas. These ballingas are worshipped across India and, if you have a Hindu religious frame of mind, they make perfect souvenirs.
Sahasradhara
Sahasradhara (the name literally means a thousand streams) is a place near Maheshwar where one can see the Narmada in all her majesty divide, as the name suggests, into thousands of tiny streams.
Temples
There are, as we mentioned before, over a hundred temples in the town of Maheshwar – many of these are the results of the devotional nature of its legendary queen and, the city’s mythological importance is the reason behind the others.
Sahasarjun temple is one of the most important temples in the town.
As per a legend contained in Sabha Parva in Andhra Mahabharata, a nishada king named Nila ruled over Mahishmati. His daughter was an amazing beauty. She and Agni, the God of fire, fell in love with each other. The princess would always stay near the sacred fire of her father, and her presence would blaze with vigor. It won’t blaze even if fanned unless it was agitated by the gentle and tender breath of her lips. Agni took the form of a Brahmana and started visiting her. The couple was caught, the angered king wanted to punish the Brahmin with death but when Agni revealed his true identity, King sought forgiveness. Agni agreed to forgive him and even swore to protect his kingdom on the condition that the great king should sanctify pleasure out of pure love a legitimate action in his kingdom, and thus liberate the kingdom of the custom of marriage – a rather feminist story for ancient times. Even to this date, Sahasrarjun temple lights 11 lamps in honor of Lord Agni blessing the Kingdom.
There is also an amazing Baneshwar Mahadev Temple. This temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva, is situated on an island in the middle of the Narmada. According to local mythical beliefs, a heavenly line – an axis of sorts from the North Star passes through the point of this temple to the earth’s very center.
Sapta Martuka Mandir is another important temple and boosts of seven shrines devoted to seven goddesse. This temple is located on a small ghat.
Some of the other temples include Bhawani Mata Mandir, Ram and Krishna Mandir, Rajrajeshwar Mandir, Chaturbhuj Narayan Mandir, Khedapati Hanuman, Kashi Vishwanath Mandir, Narsingh Mandir, Ganesh Mandir, Chintamani Ganpati Mandir, Pandharinath Mandir, , Banke Bihari, Anant Narayan Mandir etc.
What to buy at Maheshwar?
We have already mentioned how Ballingas are unique souvenirs only to be found in Maheshwar. Another souvenir that has made Maheshwar popular all over India is its Maheshwari sarees.
Maheshwari sarees, now regaining their old familiarity, are woven using conventional wooden looms and are traditionally colored using vegetable dyes which make the original quality of these sarees expensive. There are ones that use chemical dyes and are less costly but these we didn’t find that beautiful.
The popular colors for the Maheshwari Sarees include angoori (grape green), gul bakshi (magenta), dalimbi (deep pink), tapkeer (deep brown), jaamla (purple), aamras (golden-yellow), etc. The pallav or aanchal of these Maheshwari sarees have five stripes of two alternating colors – of which one is always white.
The zari and kinari are used to embellish the Maheshwari sarees which often have a rich golden border and two gold bands on the pallav. These sarees are characterized by reversible border making it possible to wear both sides. Suited to the hot climate of Madhya Pradesh, these sarees have a light cloth which, so to speak, floats on your body and thus make them perfect wear in Indian Summers.
Places Near Maheshwar worth visiting
Kaleshwar and Jwaleshwar mandirs are some important temples located just a little outside the town. Take in as many of these temples as you can before taking the bus to your next destination.
The chances are you will come here via Indore which is one of the best tourist attractions in itself and has several forts and attractions of its own – including the best variety of street food you will find in it.
We recommend combining your journey to Maheshwar with Omkareshwar which is only 3 hours journey away from Maheshwar and is an island of great spiritual importance among Hindus and offers beautiful sights that will be loved by tourists even if they are indifference to its spiritual importance.
Madhya Pradesh is emerging as an alternative tourism hotspot standing apart from conventionally popular tourist destinations. And for very good reasons, It has so much to offer – temples, wildlife, indigenous garment industry which has receives fame all over the country. Today, we shall talk about one of the many pleasures it has to offer – Bagdara Wildlife Sanctuary. This sanctuary is located in the Sidhi District of the state. Established in 1978, it spreads over an area of about 478 sq. kms.
The sanctuary is home to over a hundred species of flora and fauna. Among plants you will find here, tall teak trees, mango groves, orchids gigantic creepers, etc are predominant. It boasts of a number of wild animals including Tiger, Panther, Deer, Sambhar, Hyenas, Chinkara, Cheetal, Wild Boar, Black Buck along with an incredible diversity of birds.
How to reach Bagdara Wildlife Sanctuary?
The nearest airport to Bagdara Wildlife Sanctuary is at Khajuraho, from where you can take the bus. The nearest railhead is at Rewa while Sindhi Bus station is the nearest station. The self-petrol or diesel vehicles are the primary means of transportation within the sanctuary. These vehicles are not yet five years and add splendidly to the experience.
When to visit Bagdara Wildlife Sanctuary?
The time from November to June is good to visit the sanctuary. Though given Madhya Pradesh’s climate, we recommend the winter season – that is, November to February.
Our visit to Bagdara Wildlife Sanctuary
We arrived at Sanctuary and were greeted by beautiful dry deciduous mixed forest cover. We hired a vehicle and were quickly on our way exploring the abundance of the wildness of the sanctuary. We had some beginner’s luck as we came across a couple of deer our having their breakfast.
However, this bit of good luck was followed by two hours of dryness excepting some sighting of the birds. Just when we thought it was getting boring though we were greeted by a sight of a tiger on his way to someplace in all the splendidness and coolness that only this royal animal could boost. We also had the luck of coming across a Black Buck toward the evening.
We spent the night in a Suit within the Sanctuary playing antakshari with other tourists and left the day after.
Where to stay in or around Bagdara Wildlife Sanctuary?
Two cool suites are available in the Bagdara wildlife sanctuary for accommodation – we ourselves stayed in one of these and we highly recommend that you do not miss the experience of spending a night in the wilderness. There is also a forest rest house.
Places around Bagdara Wildlife Sanctuary
The benefits of visiting the Bagdara Wildlife Sanctuary are not limited to the Sanctuary itself. A number of other attractions, including some other sanctuaries, are located nearby. We highly recommend visiting the Goura Hillock which has some splendid rock paintings.
Some tips
Please do not litter in the Sanctuary.
Visit the Goura Hillock and check out the rock paintings while you are here. You may also be interested in other sanctuaries nearby.
Try to find accommodation within the sanctuary to get the best out of the trip.
That is all from us here at Ghoomophiro. Have you been to Bagdara Wildlife Sanctuary? How was your experience? Please do tell us in the comments below. 🙂
Having a temple that is shaped like Om, Omkareshwar is of great spiritual importance to Hindus as well as offering a great aesthetic pleasure to secular travelers too.
The temple is located in a ridiculously small island lies on the river Narmada and its tributary Kaveri. It is also called Mandhata and Shivpuri but is popularly called Omkareshwar after its grandest temple.
What is the best time to visit
The extreme of summer (and preferably that of winter) should be avoided while visiting Madhya Pradesh. October-November is the best months to visit. Also, you may want to visit Omakareshwar on its two annual festivals – Narmada Jayanti and Mahashivratri. Omkareshwar and Maheshwar have their ghats adorned with lights and maha parties are performed at these ghats.
How to reach Omkareshwar?
Omkareshwar is not really well connected to the rest of the world. The nearest airport and railway station are both at Indore which is 78 kilometers away. From there you can catch the bus to the banks of the Narmada river. You can also catch a bus from Ujjain and Khandwa. We can’t say we liked the journey by bus a lot but it was worth the experience Omkareshwar had to offer. Once you have reached the shores of Narmada river, a streamer will take you to the island.
We highly recommend that you visit Omkareshwar when you are touring Indore – as a one day detour along with Maheshwar or a two-day detour that would include Omkareshwar, Maheshwar and Mandu.
Where to stay in Omkareshwar?
Like most places of religious importance, Omkareshwar offers accommodation options to people with all pocket sizes.
What to see in Omkareshwar?
1. The Scenic Beauty and spiritual importance of Island
The island itself, surrounded by waters of the Narmada and Kaveri on all sides, is full of mesmerizing views on all sides. We felt refreshed at the mere sight of the island.
This island is shaped like the sign OM, which is a spiritual symbol of Hindus. The sign ‘om’ is said to be the sound that was at the root of birth of the universe (the whole Hindu version of ‘In the beginning, there was a word’ philosophy).
There is a Hindu legend behind island having this shape according to which Vindya, the deity of the Vindyachal mountain range once created a sacred geometrical diagram and a Lingam made of sand and clay while worshipping Shiva. Shiva was so pleased with that he appeared in two forms, namely Omkareshwar and Amaleswara, both of which have temples dedicated to them at the island.
According to Hindu Puranas, this island has been inhabited for fifty-five hundred years.
According to another Hindu myth, when it was once ruled by King Mandhata, an ancestor of Lord Rama who ruled the island, the whole island sparkled like a gem. This piqued the curiosity of the great celestial sage Narada who asked God Shiva about it. Lord Shiva answered that the island will decline in appearance according to declining times. In Satyuga (which was the age in which Mandhata was ruling), it was to be a giant gem, in Treta Yuga it would be a mountain of gold, in Dwapar Yuga it would be made entirely of copper and in Kaliyuga (which still goes on) it would be made of rock.
The Narmada, affectionately known locally as Maa Rewa, is of great spiritual importance in Hinduism. An important pilgrimage among Hindus, especially those of the region, is Narmada Parikrama which involves Parikrama of the holy Narmada river and Omakarehwar is one of the most important stops for these pilgrims. – in fact, it is one of two places to start the journey, the other alternative being Amarkantak, the source of the Narmada river. Omkareshwar happens to be midway between Amarkantak the source of Narmada river and its final destination which is near Bharuch where it enters the Arabian Sea and thus it is honored with the title ‘Nabhi Sthal’ (figuratively ‘the navel’) of the river’.
2. Omkareshwar Mahadev temple
The most popular and the most important temple of the area, Omkareshwar Mahadev Temple or Omkar Mandhata temple stands the Northern bank of Narmada. You will have to walk past the ghats and canopies of flower sellers to reach the temple.
Omakareshwar temple is one of the most important holy places for Hindus as, among other reasons, it is home to one of the twelve Jyotirlingas. The other Jyotirlingas are at Somnath in Gujarat, Viswanath at Varanasi in Uttar Pradesh, Deogarh in Jharkhand, Mallikarjuna at Srisailam in Andhra Pradesh, Mahakaleswar at Ujjain in Madhya Pradesh, Nageswar at Dwarka in Gujarat, Kedarnath in Himalayas, in Uttrakhand state, Bhimashankar in Maharashtra, Triambakeshwar near Nashik in Maharashtra, Vaidyanath Jyotirlinga, Rameshwar at Rameswaram in Tamil Nadu, and Grishneshwar near Aurangabad, Maharashtra in Maharashtra. Needless to say, we have seen quite a few of these.
This name of ‘Omkar Mandhata temple’ comes from the Hindu belief that Ikshvaku king Mandhata, an ancestor of Lord Rama who ruled the island, brought the Shivalinga here. His gaddi or seat is still in the temple premises.
The whole temple is a wonder of architecture. The base or the ‘mandapa’ of this temple is made of 60 solid stone pillar carved with Yakshi figures. The images of different Devi Devatas adorn the temple walls.
The Shivalinga itself is made of a rock onto which water is constantly offered and is not, unusually, placed under the shikhara as is normally the custom among Shiva temples. An ‘Abhisheka’ of this majestic Shivlinga is done with milk, curd and Narmada water three times a day.
Just behind the Shivaling stands a beautiful Silver image of Goddess Parvati, Shiva’s wife. We visited the temple at night – around 8:30 PM just in time for night Arti which is held every and is quite popular locally. This arti is then followed by laying the bed for Lord Shiva and Parvati to spend their night on and a game of Cahupad is also placed for them to play before going to bed.
The Omkareshwar Mahadev temple is surrounded by small temples including a Panch Mukhi Hanuman Temple, a Dwarkadhish temple and a Shani temple.
Please note that unfortunately no photography is allowed inside the temple.
3. Mandhata Palace
Behind the temples, there is a flight of stairs (about eighty steps) which ascend to Mandhata Palace, now owned by Holkars. The palace is a White Hall only a part of it is opened to the public. The corridors of Hall are pillared like North Indian Havelis. The Durbar Hall on one end has a round ceiling with some remains of what was probably once really glass work on it. The highlight of the palace for us though was the overhanging windows or Jharakhas created for kings to look to have the majestic view of the island …. you could see why it could be considered the royal view.
4. Omkareshwar Parikrama
This is a sixteen-kilometer long Parikarma or circumambulation of the island walking on a path surrounding the Kshetra or region The parikrama is a common practice among Hindus devotees but it also a great way to enjoy the beauty of the island. You will pass Omkarnath Ashram, Khedapati Hanuman Mandir, Omkarnath Ashram, Ramakrishna Mission Ashram, Kedareshwar Temple, Narmada Kaveri Sangam, Narmada Kaveri Sangam, Markanda Ashram, Rin Mukteshwar Temple, Dharanraj Dwar, Gauri Somnath temple, Patali Hanuman temple, Sidhdhanath temple and a giant statue of Shiva.
The Markanda Ashram is home to a twelve-meter high image of Lord Krishna while Narmada Kaveri Sangam is, according to a Hindu legend, the place where Kubera meditated in order to get the boon that would make him the king of Yakshas.
Assuming there is enough water in Narmada river, we recommend you also do the Parikarma in boats and get a chance to take in the mesmerizing beauty of temple with its lights reflected in Narmada water at night time seeming to be like so many pearls adorning the beautiful river.
5. Mamleshwar Temple
The Mamleshwar temple dedicated to the other form of Shiva and is also known as Amleshwar temple or Amareshwar temple. It is located on the mainland on the southern bank of Narmada, near the Gomukh ghat. An Omkareshwar pilgrimage is said to be incomplete without visiting this temple. The temple has those beautiful stone walls and sculptures and we were also particularly impressed by a Nandi Mandap at the main temple. In practice of Lingarchana rat the temple, devotees worship the thousand Banlingas that are placed in concentric circles around the Shivalinga.
6. Govindeshwara or the Shankaracharya Cave at Omkareshwar
One of the greatest sages of Hinduism, Adi Shankaracharya began his career here. He was born in Kelady in Kerala and traveled across India and established four Mathas in four directions. But it was here, at Govindeshwara Guha in Omkareshwar where he studied Vedanta from his Guru Govind Bhagwatapada and wrote commentaries on Vedanta at the beginning of his career.The Govindeshwara Guha has two main entrances and has an idol of Adi Shankaracharya sits in the center.
Conclusion
According to a local legend, the parts called Shivpuri once combined with towns of Brahmpuri and Vishnupuri to form a trinity of Tripuri. Given how enchanting it looks now, One wonders what it must have been like in best of its days – especially when it used to spark like a gem. It is still awesome though J
Madhya Pradesh is full of small cities and towns that are relatively less known among tourism lovers and are historical delights that often need a day or less to visit them. The walled city of Mandu is one of the most important of these towns
Mandu or Mandavgad is an ancient city located in the Malwa region of western Madhya Pradesh, India, at 35 km from Dhar city. It is located at a distance of 100 kilometers from Indore, the capital of Madhya Pradesh. It is a great option to consider for your next weekend getaway.
How we reached Mandu?
First, you need to reach Indore. Indore is nicely connected to the rest of the world via rail, road, and airways. From Indore, we took a bus to Mandu as railway connectivity leaves much for asking. You can also take a taxi from Indore.
When to visit?
The weather is most pleasant in monsoon. We will recommend avoiding both the coldest and, particularly, the hottest times of the year. If you are considering it as an add-on for a tour to Indore or Madhyapradesh, consider the local festivals or events you might be interested in.
Where to stay?
Mandu has several accommodation options catering to all pocket sizes. We stayed at Malwa resort though it was not too much to recommend, it met our most immediate accommodation needs
What to see in Mandu?
The Darwazas (Gates)
Madu is a walled city. It is surrounded by a 37-kilometer wall which is punctuated by 12 gateways. Naturally, these were too many to keep one’s interest in seeing them all in but the gates are probably the first thing you will see in Mandu as they are located at entrance themselves.
Roopmati’s Pavilion
This pavilion is a large sandstone structure that was originally built as an army observation post. Rani Roopmati, who was the love interest of Baaz Bahadur, is said to have lived here. It is said she would often gaze at the Baz Bahadur’s Palace which is situated below (and next in our list of Mandu’s attractions) and also at Narmada river, flowing through the Nimar plains far below, a river which she revered.
Baz Bahadur’s Palace
Just next to Roopmati’s pavilion is Baz Bahadur Palace and can be seen from the pavilion. Baz Bahadur built this palace in 16th-century structure.
Rewa Kund
Rewa Kund was the reservoir constructed by Baz Bahadur for supplying water to Roopmati’s Pavilion.
Darya Khan’s Tomb complex
Darya Khan was an important minister in the court of Mahmud Khalji II, and his tomb lies in the walled complex along with another tomb, a mosque, a pond, an inn, etc. Hathi Paga Mahal (literally Elephant Leg Palace) is located on the south-eastern side of the Complex and is crowned with a massive dome.
Shri Mandavagadh Teerth
Next in our list of sites worth seeing in Mandu is Shri Mandavagadh Teerth. It is dedicated to Lord Suparshvanatha and belongs to Shwetambar Sect of Jainism. The 3 feet tall idol of Lord Suparshvanath is seated in a padmasana posture. The fort also has a smaller temple dedicated to Lord Shantinath and there are ruins and idols of several temples – according to one source, there were once as many 700 Jain temples here.
Chaturbhuj Sri Rama temple
This temple of Mandu is unique for feature a Lord Rama statue, the only one of its kind – that shows him with four arms.
Jama Masjid
Mandu’s Jama Masjid is said to be inspired by the great mosque of Damascus and tries to replicate the Damascus Mosque in its simplicity as well as architectural style-with large courtyards and grand entrances. In the front, there are ruins of Asharfi Palace. The complex of buildings has a seven-story winning memorial at the north-east of the palace as well as a Rama Temple, which was built by Maharani Sakarwar bai Pawar in 1769 AD.
Hoshang Shah’s Tomb
The tomb of Hoshang Shah is yet another important monument in Mandu as it is considered to be India’s first marble structure. Its dome, marble latticework, porticoed courts, and towers show the influence of Afghan architecture. It has been said that it served as a template for the construction of Taj Mahal.
Jahaz Mahal
Jahaz Mahal (literally Ship Palace) and also known as Water Palace of Mandu is a palace located between two artificial lakes and gives the appearance of being a ship floating in the water. This wonderful two-story architectural marvel was built by Sultan Ghiyas-ud-din-Khalji and served as a harem for him.
Hindola Mahal
Last in our list of sights to see in Mandu is Hindola Mahal. Hindola Mahal literally meaning Swing palace gets its name from its sloping side walls. Though the architectural splendor shows that this palace has enjoyed a rich past, historians are in no agreement as to the time of its construction or the purpose it served.
Conclusion
The best way to visit Mandu is either on a weekend getaway from Delhi or a one-day trip while being on an extended tour in Indore. A possible plan might involve visiting it after you are done with Indore and then head to Maheswar and/or Omkareshwar. The lack of tourists in this town will make you feel like discoverer or new tourist attractions. J
Tigers are majestic. The word ‘royal’ is redundant in name of Royal Bengal Tigers, our national animal. However, another class of tigers perhaps outdo even the Bengal tigers – the white tigers who gave the title to Arvind Adiga’s Man Booker award-winning book ‘The White Tiger’.
Theoretically speaking there is not much difference between white tigers. They live, love and bread in similar conditions and habitat and very much similar nature. And yet white tigers are loved far more – perhaps because of their rarity … or perhaps it is absurdity of their existence, you almost get the sense that they should not exist, nature defies its own rules in letting them come into existence, perhaps breaking away from its own set, rigid ways to create something beautiful.
It is this majesty of white tigers that infatuated us with a strong desire for white tigers. And there was one and only place to do it – Mukundpur where the world’s first white tiger safari was held. And Munkunpur very well deserved the honor of being the place where maiden tiger safari should be held as it was also the very place where first white tiger of the world was spotted by Rewa king Maharaja Martand Singh in 1951.
About Mukundpur
When speaking of tigers, Madhya Pradesh quickly comes mind – especially when the subject is white tigers. It is perhaps one of the most gifted places when it comes to being home to most royal of all creature
Mukundpur is a village in Satna District of Madhya Pradesh State, located at a distance of 478 km from the state capital, Bhopal. The beautiful village is surrounded by water bodies on one side and by the forests on the other. It got its name from Maharaja Mukund Dev, since whose birthplace it was and attracted the attention of wildlife enthusiasts for first time in 1951 when the first white tiger was spotted here by Mahara Martand Singh.
The tiger that was sighted by Maharaja Martand Singh was named Mohan. Mohan was probably a result of genetic mutilation, however, the mutilation was so beautiful that Maharaja encouraged breading via Mohan to produce more white tigers. It is from Mohan that all white tigers of the world have descended.
How to reach Munkunpur?
By Air:
The nearest airport is at Rewa which is located at a distance of 15.6 km. You can hire a taxi from there.
By Rail
Rewa located at a distance of 15.6 km has the nearest railway station. You can hire a taxi from there.
By Road:
You can hire taxis from several of nearby major cities including Rewa and Lalitpur.
The White Tiger Safari
The white Tiger Safar at a Mukundpur was one of the high priority items on our itinerary during our tour to Bhopal. We took a long detour just in order to enjoy it first catching a train to Rewa and then hiring a taxi from there. We reached Mukundpur a bit tired but what was held in there can freshen up any wildlife enthusiast.
We started by visiting the zoo first. We took a golf car to see the zoo and we got a chance to see the white tigers as well as several other animals – such as bears, black bucks, lions, etc. The sight of all the exotic animals was thrilling but white tigers stood in their own league.
The safari was opened from 11:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. The tickets were very reasonably charged. We seated ourselves in the safari van and let ourselves enjoy the mesmerizing view of tigers. Within the very first hour, we got a chance to see a deer who passed by the van though we failed to click it.
But after that, nature seemed to have turned it back on us for next few hours as we roamed around in the beautiful sights created by natural vegetation but our eyes starved for a sight of the grand prize. Even near the pond where tigers were most likely to be sighted – given the love of all wildlife for drinking water and tiger’s best chance of finding his prey there, we achieved no success.
At a little of 3 p.m. when we were already at the end of our hopes, someone in the van started screaming in excitement. And yes, it was a white tiger lying a few feet away oblivious to the excitement his sight has caused among us, lesser mortals, in the van.
It seemed to be lazying about, but even that was enough for us to go click happy (a rare privilege granted to us). We clicked its pictures, in one he was yawning and even in that picture it seemed so cool. Perhaps tigers just can’t help being cool.
It was a majestic sight. And it stayed there – for what? like fifteen minutes, letting us admire him and his royal indifferent ways before getting up and walking away in the direction away from us. Our guide told us it was named Raghu and was one of the first tigers to be brought to the reserve.
And this was the highlight of the safari. Nothing much happened after that.
What to take back home?
We highly recommend buying some locally handcrafted goods made of bamboos as the perfect souvenir one might get from Mukukndpur.
Travel Trips:
Please note that photography is not generally allowed during the tiger safari.
Follow the rules of the tiger reserve and the instructions given by the staff of the reserve
Conclusion
It was a 478-kilometer distance we had to travel on trains and buses just to reach Mukundpur from Bhopal and then an equal distance on our way back but the unique experience which was waiting for us there was more than worth it. We are even considering going for another safari there soon.
An amazing option for your next getaway if you are a resident of Delhi is Gwalior. This historic city of Madhya Pradesh has stunning forts and temples as well as an art and culture center. Located at a distance of mere 343 kilometers from Delhi it is an ideal weekend getaway and offers enough attractions for an extended weekend as well.
Gwalior itself is packed with attractions that, for the most part, can be visited on a 2 or 3 days getaway but if you can want an extended holiday, you can use it as your camping place for exploring attractions of several nearby towns.
How did we reach Gwalior?
The city has one of the cleanest railway stations you will find in India. Over 50 trains leave for Delhi and Agra. There are somewhat fewer trains for Mumbai though. Its location in the centre of the country ensures its connectivity to most of major cities of the country – Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkatta, Chennai as well as Bhopal, Nagpur as well as central India attractions like Indore, Jhansi, Shivpuri, Jhansi, Bhind, Morena, Dholpur, Etawah, Datia, Jaipur, and Indore.
National Highways connect the city to Delhi, Agra, Mumbai, Shivpuri, Jhansi, etc. Like with railways, Gwalior enjoys good road connectivity to many nearby cities including Bhopal, Indore, Jabalpur, Jhansi, Bhind, Morena, Dholpur, Etawah, Datia, Jaipur, etc.
Gwalior Airport or ‘Rajamata Vijaya Raje Scindia Airport’ is a local airport. It enjoys connectivity to Bombay, Bhopal, Indore, and Delhi
Locally, there are several public transport options – tempos, auto rickshaw taxis, Ola Cabs, and micro-buses.
We chose railways to travel from Delhi to Agra. We could easily reserve seats on a train that was about to leave at about the time we wished to start our journey without much trouble.
What did we eat?
Gwalior’ local cuisine offers a big variety of tastes. Boondi Laddoo, Cheela, Petha, Wale, Poha, dosa, Gajak, etc are some of the locally available food that we personally loved. If you are a prude and do not want to experiment too much, there are of course malls and international food options.
What is the best time to visit Gwalior?
The summers can be too hot and winters can be too cold. In terms of climate, October-November is the best months. We decided to be in Gwalior in time for Tansen Samaroh held in December and found weather pleasant enough (if it wasn’t the effect of classical music 🙂 )
Where to stay?
Gwalior has hospitality options catering to all budgets and you won’t face a problem in finding a hotel suitable for your needs.
Places to see in Gwalior – a 2-day itinerary
Here is what we did in two days.
Day 1 – Gwalior Fort
Gwalior’s biggest tourist attraction is also its most visible landmark – Gwalior Fort. The city was built around the fort and continues to thrive around it. It has unparallel importance in the history of India and has been popularly called “the Gibraltar of India”. The Mughal Emperor Babur famously described it as “the pearl in the necklace of the forts of Hind”.
Built somewhere between 6th and 10th century A.D. Gwalior fort also boosts of second-oldest record of ‘zero’ – in an inscription found in a small temple located on the way to top. This inscription is said to be about 1500 years old.
According to a local legend back in third century A.D., Suraj Sen, a local prince, once lost his way in the forest and ended up meeting an old man, the sage Gwalipa on a secluded hill. He asked the sage for some drinking water and led to a pond, the waters of which not only quenched his thirst but cured him of leprosy. Out of gratitude, the prince asked the sage to ask for something in return. The sage replied by asking him to build a wall on the hill which could protect the other sages from wild animals that so often disturbed their pujas or yajnas. Suraj Sen also built a palace inside the fort, which was named “Gwalior” after the sage, and that also became the name of the city that developed around the fort.
Ever since the fort has been ruled by a number of empires but we won’t bore you with details and will go straight to its several attractions.
Teli Ka Mandir
Teli Ka Mandir (literally Oil Merchant’s temple), a temple built within the fort is an architectural anomaly as instead of being square shaped as is the norm, the temple is rectangular shaped. According to a local legend, the temple was built by oil merchants instead of the royal or priestly class. It has also been claimed to be built by the famous Gurjara-Pratiharas emperor Mihira Bhoja.
To approach the temple, you climb a flight of stairs that lead to this stunning banded doorway containing sculptures of river goddesses Ganga and Yamuna. The waists are shown leaning towards the center, each with a boy and a girl on the lower part. Above them one see works showing amorous couples in different stages of courtship and intimacy (mithuna). There are also male and female dvarapalas along with the outer and inner doorways, each carrying weapons and kind expression of welcome. The doorway leads to the sanctum sanctorum or garbha griha.
The rectangular structure boosts of a tower that rises up to 80 feet. The doorway into the temple is itself 35 feet high and is ornamented with a relief of Garuda (we found it amazing), the vehicle or vahana of Lord Vishnu. Inside the doorway, there is another doorway above which is a Ganesha relief. There is a sculptor of Nandi and lingam inside in the sanctum. Several inscriptions ornament the temple showing a variety of influences.
Jain Temples
The fort boasts of several Jain temples dedicated to Jain Tirthankaras. Urvahi and Gopachal are the most important of them and boosts of hundreds of sculptures of Jain Tirthankaras. A 58 feet tall statue of Rishabhanatha or Adinatha is the tallest in these temples. The temples much like Hindu temples have suffered much damage due to invasions by Muslim rules but are still popular.
Gurdwara Data Bandi Chhor
Another important religious landmark is Gurdwara Data Bandi Chhor. It was built at the place where the 6th Sikh Guru Hargobind Sahib was arrested and held captive at the age of 14 years by the fourth Mughal Emperor Jahangir in 1609 on the pretext that the fine which imposed on his father, the fifth Sikh Guru Arjan had not been paid by the Sikhs and Guru Hargobind. According to the legend, when the fine was paid, the 52 Rajas who were also imprisoned in the fort as hostages for opposing the Mughal empire were dismayed as they were losing a spiritual mentor. Guru Hargobind requested the Rajas too to be freed along with him. Jahangir allowed him to free as many rajas could hold on to the guru while leaving the prison. Guruji got himself a special gown stitched which had 52 hems. As Guru Hargobind was leaving the fort, the captive kings caught the hems of the cloak and left along with him.
Man Mandir Palace
Gwalior has several palaces but the most important one is Man Mandir Palace which is an architectural wonder. It was built by the King of Tomar Dynasty – Maharaja Man Singh in the 15th century for his favorite queen, Mrignayani. It is often referred to as a Painted Palace as it seems to have been painted due to the use of styled tiles of turquoise, green and yellow used extensively in a geometric pattern. It seemed so different from other palaces of India and we were simply awed by its beauty. This palace hosts a light-and-sound show which is the perfect way to immerse yourself in the historical journey of the city.
Gujari Mahal or Museum
Gujari Mahal was also built by King Tomar, when Mrignayani, demanded a separate fort for herself with its own water supply. The palace is now an archeological museum and holds several artifacts. Karan Mahal and Vikram Mahal are some of the other palaces.
Day 2 – other attractions of Gwalior
Jay Vilas Palace
A palace built to welcome Prince Wales, Jay Vilas Palace is built according to European architecture. This stunningly beautiful palace which might stand in the election for Selfie-capital of the country was built by Maharajadhiraj Shrimant Jayajirao Scindia Alijah Bahadur, the Maharaja of Gwalior in 1874 and still continues to be the residence of his descendants the former royal Maratha Scindia dynasty. Its beauty evades all description and has to been seen.
Built by architect Sir Michael Filose, the interior of the Durbar Hall is decorated with gilt and gold furnishings and adorned with a huge carpet and gigantic chandeliers. According to a legend, eight elephants were suspended from the durbar (royal court) hall ceiling to check it could cope with two 12.5m-high, 3.5-tonne chandeliers with 250 light bulbs, which are the largest pair in the world.
Scindia Museum is an important museum in Gwalior built in 1964, within Jai Vilas Palace in Gwalior. Scindia Museum. It is dedicated to Jivaji Rao Scindia, the last ruling Maharaja of Gwalior from the Scindia dynasty. The highlight of the museum is the glass furniture. Apart from this, the Scindia Museum also exhibits manuscripts, sculptures, coins, paintings, weapons, from that period. The Museum is closed on Wednesdays and is open between 10 a.m. and 5:30 p.m. on other days. There is a nominal ticket fee required.
There are many amazing artifacts to be seen here. We particularly loved the idea of a mini silver train, still, in working condition, that would be used to carry salt, pepper, etc on the royal dining table.
Tomb of Ghaus
Ghaus was a sufi saint who assisted Babur in his conquest of the Gwalior Fort and was the mentor of Musical legend Tansen whose tomb is also located in the city. The tomb of Ghaus is a small architectural wonder in its own right.
Gwalior Zoo
If you were not satisfied with National Park, Gwalior has its own zoo that was established by the Scindia family back in 1922. It is also known as the Gandhi zoo. It is home to a variety of rare animals like bison, hyena, spotted deer (which were adorable, a white tiger, sambhars, crocodiles, monkeys, some birds, etc. The zoo also features a Phool Bagh here which was inaugurated by the Prince of Wales.
Vivaswan Surya Mandir
Built by G.D. Birla, Vivaswan Surya Mandir is a sun temple which tries to replicate Konark sun temple in all its splendor – surrounded by a lush garden, having sandstone exterior and marble interior, it is one of most fascinating attractions of fort-city. The temple is opened between 6:30 am to 12:00 pm and 1:00 pm to 6:00 pm.
8. Suraj Kund
The Suraj Kund or ‘the lake of the Sun’ was built around the 10th century by King Surya Pal, a devotee of Sun god. The compound is located outside the Gwalior fort and also has a lush garden and another pool called ‘Siddha kind’.
9. Tansen Tomb
Like we mentioned earlier, Gwalior is a major art and culture center. The musical genius Tansen’s tomb is located here. It is a piece of architectural wonder and the place is also home to several other tombs. His tomb is near a tarmarind. According to a legend, Tansen chewed on the leaves of a tamarind tree and he proclaimed it to be the secret of his spectacular voice. Tansen died in Delhi but was brought here to find his final resting place near his mentor Mohammed Ghaus. The tomb of Tansen is a relatively small one and would be easy to miss if it were not for the board proclaiming it.
The Tansen Tomb is the place where Tansen Samaroh is held in December every year in form of musical extravaganza in which famous musicians from all over the world pay tribute to the great musical legend of the country.
A five-day itinerary – including nearby attractions for an extended Getaway
Gwalior itself might be seen in 2 days according to above place but if you have more time at your proposal, the way we did, you can consider spending 3 more days in Gwalior to make trips to nearby towns of tourist attraction. In that case, you might consider the following:
Day 3 – Padavali And Bateshwar
An ancient fortress located at a distance of about 40 kilometers from Gwalior city center, Pandava is perhaps most notorious for its erotic cravings which have won it a reputation as a sort of mini-Khajuraho. The fortress boosts of over 200 sandstone temples.
Day 4 – Mahadev National Park
Looking for a break of so much of history and culture, we decided to spend some time in Mahadev National Park. The park is home to several animals – blackbuck, nilgai, leopard and chinkara as well as some of the migratory and domestic birds like heron, kingfisher and more. The national park is opened from 6:30 am to 10:00 am and 2:30 pm to 6:00 pm and can be visited in 3 to 5 hours. The National Park is located in Shivpuri at a distance of 112 kilometers.
Day 5 – Orchha
Having served as a capital of Bundela Rajput, Orchha is home to several temples and palaces showing Bundela architectural genius. The town is located at a distance of 120 kilometers from Gwalior but has several attractions including a Wildlife Sanctuary.
Conclusion
It is amazing how Gwalior has not yet started attracting as many tourists as its attractions should suggest but that will make it all more attractive to those tourists who want to avoid too crowded cities. There is a caveat though that must be mentioned here. Gwalior is one of the most polluted city not only of India but of the world and so fresh air is not one of the perks it has to offer. It is a problem that the local government is trying to counter. That said it is one of the must-visit tourist attractions of central India in particular and India in General. Its temples, palaces, forts – and not to mention the train artifact is not easy to ignore. Cheers. J
Indore has been dubbed as the food capital of India and perhaps no other city deserves that title. Indore is for food lovers of India what Goa is for its beach lovers. It drives advantage of its central location in India to find a way for specialties of different parts of the country whose culinary genius is held in awe and respect all over the world into its own highly diverse kitchen.
And nowhere does Indore bring to life its love affair with food than at its tremendously popular Sarafa Market which springs up like sinister intentions of naughty lovers every night.
Sarafa Bazar opens at around 8 p.m. when the jewelry market around Rajwada Bazaar – a dying rudiment of Holker Raj shuts down and stays open till long past midnight proving, to the uninitiated, that there are no bad times to satisfy your craving for something delicious. Its a festivity and a fan fair of over 3000 visitors for food lovers that surround the neon-lit shops and carts which one feels when one visits the Sarafa Bazaar which makes you want to make it your home.
Over 50 different dishes are available at this market – made of recipes that have been perfected over a century and, of course, just as Indian food lovers would like it, there is nothing subtle about taste.
During our last trip to Indore, we got a chance to partake the pleasures of Indore Night Sarafa Food market three days in a row. Here we bring you a list of some of the most popular food items of Sarafa food market:
1. Pani Puri
If like us, Pani Puri is your thing then it will take you a while to have enough of Indore Night Sarafa Food market which offers not one, not two and not two, three, four but over 10 different flavours of this beloved street food of India, of course along with its long-standing partner – the usual mint-and-chilli-spiked water.
2. Poha Jalebi
Poha Jalebi is the signature breakfast dish of the city of Indore. It is born of a marriage of two unlikely partners – poha and jalebi, one from Maharashtra and the other of Arabic origins. It is light, mild, not to say sinfully delicious and served with spicy crunchy missal.
3. Bhutte ki Kees
Bhutte ki Kees is a seasonal specialty. It is made from corn, shredded and cooked with milk, coconut, and spices until it acquires a moist, smooth texture. It will melt in your mouth leaving behind a mesmerizing taste that goes just too well along with fresh coriander, grated coconut, and lemon juice
4. Garadu
Garuda is a sort of guilty pleasure of a dish – for it is exactly the burning sensation it leaves on our tongue that we love it for. It is a particular variety of the yam, that is fried to perfection to form a crisp snack topped with spices, etc and sold on pushcarts. It also goes along well with lemon juice which will also satiate the burning sensation eating hot Garadu will leave on your tongue.
5. Khopra Patties
One of my favorites from Indore Night Sarafa Food Market is Khopra Patties. These patties are potato balls cooked with a core of stuffed coconut and fried right in front of your greedy eyes. They are best enjoyed tangy tamarind chutney. We particularly recommend the ones they sell at Vijay Chat House.
6. Egg Benjo
Egg Benjo is made from an omelet, that was crisp and red with chilies and nestled in a warmed bun. It is so soft that it will melt in your mouth and the best place to enjoy them is Johnny Hot Dog Shop.
7. Dal Bafla
The Dal bafla is an oven-baked ball of wheat and semolina, which is then crushed and dipped in ghee (who cares for high cholesterol levels anyway?) before being served. Accompany Dal Bafla with light dal, churma, coriander-mint chutney, and mango pickle. We highly recommend trying it Rajhans.
8. Sabudana Khichdi
We will most heartily recommend the Sabudana Khichdi made by Om Prakash Vyas of Saawariyan Seth. The Sabudana Khichdi is one of those dishes that can be eaten during Hindu fasts, thus you can give into your taste-lust without fear losing your pious standing
9. Malpua
The Malpua are thin pancakes made of flour, khoya (milk solids), semolina, etc. It is deep-fried and dunked in sugar syrup. It partners well with rabdi.
10. Indori Shikanji
Indori Shikanji is, unlike its name suggests, neither lemon nor water. Rather, it is a milk drink with dry fruits that have a hint of tanginess from the mattha (buttermilk). It has a dewy sweetness to it.
11. Jaleba
Have you had fantasies for a really big Jalebi as we do? In that case, Jaleba, a specialty of Madhya Pradesh, especially of its Indore Night Sarafa Food market is just the thing for you. Jalebe is a king size jalebi fried in desi ghee. It is large and crisp but soft within and is sugar syrup sweet thus making it fifth in our list of 10 Sweets you should eat while in Madhya Pradesh.
12. Ratalu
Ratalu is a winter specialty. It is made of chunks of purple yam deep-fried to a golden brown and then generously smothered in red chili powder. Just one bite is enough to fill your mouth with an unparallel taste.
13. Doodh Chana and Namkeen
Doodh Chana is a snack made of kabuli chana, soaked in milk for several hours and then it is fried and spiced. It is incredibly soft and delicious and goes well along with Namkeen. We highly recommend trying it at Ganesh Namkeen. There are several forms of namkeen but the one we loved most was Indori khata meetha.
14. Kaanji Vada
Kaanji Vada is a sour tasting Dahi vada made by soaking plump vadas in kaanji. Kaanji is a digestive drink (may as well, you need one after indulging your taste buds so much in Indore Night Sarafa FOod Market) that is made of fermented mustard with a big smack of asafoetida.
15. Hapus Icecream with Shrikhand
Something for dessert. Saffron flavored shrikhand with pistachio and cashews partners well. We very highly recommend Agarwal Ice Cream shop which has been serving it for over 55 years.
16. Petha Paan
Petha paan is a very unique paan made of cashew, almond, gulkand (rose jam), etc that are encased in a thin layer of green petha. The Petha is held together with clove and makes a perfect end to your food marathon. We recommend trying this mouth-watering variety of paan at Anna Ka Paan shop.
17. Gulab Jamun
Balls made out of freshly Curdled milk, Gulab Jamun is without argument the king of all sweets. These mouthwatering Sugar soaked Khoya balls are flavored with green cardamom, rose water, saffron, etc. And when it comes to Gulab Jaman, nowhere else has the art of their creation being perfected as in Indore. Calories, calories – there are just no good reasons to keep anyone with a sweet tooth from enjoying these little balls of paradise.
Conclusion
Indore Night Sarafa Food market is one of those poster pictures that we would show to a newbie to encourage them to travel more often and I think the reasons for same are obvious. We hope we didn’t turn you into a hungry Joey Tribioni. Enjoy J
Considering a trip to Seoni? Well, there are several reasons why you should. One of the reasons why the name might sound familiar to you is because Rudyard Kipling, the Nobel laureate for literature who spelled its name as Seeonee, used this small city of Madhya Pradesh as a setting for his two Jungle books. In short, this would have been the place where the famous and beloved characters like Mowgli and Akira would have lived if they were alive.
Though no rainforests, Seoni is a thickly forested town. The home town of Mowgli will offer you it all – stunning views, thick vegetation, exotic animals, a dam, a temple, a tiger safari, old temples, a chance to go hiking, etc. The biggest attraction of the town is, of course, Pench Tiger Reserve, whose ideal location at Mowgli’s home makes it even more thrilling to go for a tiger safari there.
Best time to visit Seoni
The region has extremely hot summers (with a temperature rising as high as 45 degrees) and cold winter (with temperature recording as low as 0 degrees) and there is a very well defined rainy season. We recommend visiting it in October-November when the rainy season is over and the climate is cool without being cold.
How to reach Seoni?
By air
The nearest airports are at Sonegam (109 kilometers away) and Nagpur (130 kilometers away) from where taxis are easily available.
By rail
You can take a train to Chhindwara, Jabalpur or Nagpur and from there hire a taxi. Pench tiger reserve is 145 kilometers Nagpur and 215 kilometers from Jabalpur airport. a
By road
Seoni is well connected by road to all the major cities of the region. Pench tiger reserve is located at a distance of nearly 500 kilometers from the state capital, Bhopal.
Where to stay?
Nothing so perfect as Pugdundee Pench Tree resort. The resort is located at a distance of 32 kilometers from Seoni – in the thick buffer of National Park. It is made in form rustic wooden camps create a feel in one of living in nature – surrounded as one is with flora and fauna on all sides.
Main attractions
Pench Tiger Reserve
The Pench Tiger Reserve is the biggest attraction for tourists in the region. It is named after Pench river which flows through the reserve in a North to South direction. The river also acts as the natural boundary between Seoni and Chhindwara districts of Madhya Pradesh. A dam exists on this river built within the tiger reserve. There are a number of other smaller streams as well as springs in the region but distribution is uneven making most of the wildlife to limit to only some of the regions.
The 293 square kilometers terrain of the reserve was uneven with frequent small hills occurring all around located as it is in Satpura mountain range. Tropical Moist Deciduous Forests fill the region with natural vegetation. Teak and Bamboo trees are some of the most abundant ones here.
Covering a huge area of land, the tiger reserve is located in one of the forested regions of the district, surrounded by hills and mountains, and is home to various kinds of wildlife including the tiger, wild cats, leopards, wild bears, sloth bears, Jackals, wildcats, wolves, chital, sambar …… stops for breadth ……… gaur, nilgai, Indian muntjac, wild pig, small Indian civet, langaur, mongoose and lots more.
Visiting the tiger reserve was the highlight of our visit to Seoni – for even though we were greeted by sight of just one tiger during our safari, we get to see a great number of other animals – leopard, two wolves, countless langoor and a wild bear. The tiger that gratified us with his presence was drinking water from the Pench river.
Bheemgarh Dam
Bheemgarh dam also known as Upper Wainganga dam and Sanjay Sarovar Bandh is constructed across the Wainganga river of Seoni. The Dam is located at quite a distance, 43 km away from the Seoni. It is Asia’s biggest Mud or Earthen dam and the mesmerizing effect its sight had on us was enhanced by the fact of its being surrounded by mountains on all sides. The place is one of the popular tourist attractions and makes for a nice picnic spot.
Amodagarh
Returning back to Rudyard Kiping and Mougli links, we now took ourselves to the place that was supposed to be Mougli’s workplace – Amodagarh. The place is situated on a state highway and doesn’t have much to recommend it. Though a small amusement lies in the sight of the ruins of the palace of Sona Rani that is visible from here. A history lover might also be amused by the ancient Mahakaleshwar and Shiv temples here.
Matradham
Matradham is a village 15 km west in the Seoni and is the place where the Hindu guru Shankara Acharya was born and in its honor, he has constructed a Shiv Temple here in 2003.
Guru Rataneshwar Dham
Last in our list of sights to see in Seoni is Dighori village, 25 kilometers north of Seoni, where one could find the World’s Largest Sphatik Shivling at Guru Rataneshwar Dham. Hindu Guru Shankar Acharya has constructed this Dham – a sphatik Shivling that is world biggest at 54 kilograms and 21 kg paras shivling).
What to take back home?
We highly recommend buying some locally handcrafted goods made of bamboos as the perfect souvenir one might get from Mukukndpur.
Traveling tips:
There might be some safety concerns especially those surrounding solo women travelers.
Cameras are not allowed inside the Pench Tiger Reserve.
Follow the rules and regulations of the Pench Tiger Reserve inside the reserve.
Conclusion
The Disney tv series on Mowgli was our childhood favorite and thus it was with very childish grins we saw the wild animals here and called them by titles from Jungle Book series – Akela, Sher Khan etc. If you too craved to visit Mowgli’s town as a child, Seoni is definitely worth your while. J
Are you a saree lover? Then Madhya Pradesh is a state for you to visit. There are lots of things Madhya Pradesh is growing to be a favorite among tourists – religious places, places, forts, festivals, handicrafts, wildlife to name a few. One very big attraction of Madhya Pradesh, especially for the fairer gender is its sarees. Madhya Pradesh has several towns famous for their sarees.
Maheshwari Sarees, Maheshwar
The first in the list of our list of three towns saree lovers should visit in Madhya Pradesh, Maheshwar is a household name among many communities because of its sarees.
It is one of the most important tourist attractions because of several reasons. Ahalya Fort, Sahasradhara, over a hundred temples, being the location of shouting of one of our favorite movies ‘Pad man” and not to mention Maheshwari Sarees.
Maheshwari sarees are woven by using wooden looms and are traditionally colored using vegetable dyes which make them expensive (the ones using chemical dyes though less costly are in no way as attracting as far as we are concerned). The popular colors for Maheshwari sarees include dalimbi (deep pink), angoori (grape green), tapkeer (deep brown) gul bakshi (magenta), jaamla (purple), aamras (golden-yellow), etc. The pallav or aanchal of the Maheshwari sarees have five alternating stripes of which three are of different colors but two are always white. The zari and the kinari are used to embellish the ones which often have a very rich golden border with two gold bands on the pallav. Mostly, designs of floral and geometric patterns are weaved on saree.
The Maheshwari sarees have a reversible border which makes it possible to wear them both sides. The sarees always have a light cotton cloth which floats on the body thus making them perfect wear in Indian Summers – especially in a place like Madhya Pradesh where summers can be really hot.
The best place to obtain Maheshwari sarees is within Ahalya Fort where Maa Rewa Society has a weaving center. ‘Maa Rewa’ is the name with which people of Madhya Pradesh call the Narmada out of love. Though handloom industry was always prosperous, Maheshwari sarees can trace their popularity to the reign of Queen Devi Ahilya Bai who can be seen donning a beautiful Maheshwari saree in a painting in her fort there. The industry was dying in the 20th century before Richard Holkar and his wife Sally started this weaving project in order to revive the industry of Maheshwari sarees and give employment to the local women to save the dying industry. The sarees have now regained their old popularity. And in fact, the weavers have now diversified into other forms of clothes – dupattas, scarves, shawls, etc. A Maheshwari saree might be a perfect souvenir from the town of Maheshwar. You can find an original saree starting from the price of 3000 rupees
Bagh Print Sarees, Dhar
Located just 70 Kilometers west of Indore, Dhar district is second in our list of three town saree lovers should visit in MP thanks to its tremendously popular Bagh print sarees.
Bagh Print is a traditional styled hand block print that uses natural colors and originated in Bagh town on the shores of Bagh river (hence the name of the sarees), Dhar District. The sarees printed used cotton and silk cloth. Bagh print texture most popularly comprises of repeated geometric and botanical pieces using vegetable shades of red and dark over a white foundation.
The sarees can also be brought from TribesIndia a government of India organization. The prices of original Bagh Print sarees start from 2000 rupees which is nothing if one was to understand the exhausting process the sarees have to go through before they hit the market.
Besides the sarees, the town itself is full of historical spots that make it a minor tourist attraction – a Fort, the tomb of Shaykh Changāl, Pillar Mosque, Kamāl Maulā Campus, Bhoj Shala, Cenotaphs and Old City Palace, a Museum, an Agency House and Jheera Bagh are some of the historical monuments that might interest tourists
Chanderi Sarees, Chanderi
Third, in our list of Three town saree lovers should visit in Madhya Pradesh is Chanderi, a town in Ashoknagar district and location of shooting of Bollywood movies like Stree and Sui Dhaga. A 108-kilometer journey on National Highway 44 from Jhansi will land you in the historic town of Chanderi. Chanderi offers countless attractions to tourists who are looking for an offbeat destination – mesmerizing views of hills, lakes, forests, as well as Bundeli Rajputana monuments and Jain temples, are among its attractions. Its chief attraction though is its Chanderi sarees.
The Chanderi sarees trace their beginnings as far back as the around the 13th century. Made by using silk and cotton as its material, these sarees famous for its gold embroidery Zari and Brocade. Traditional coin, floral art, peacocks and geometric designs are woven into different Chanderi patterns. It is a lightweight sari with a luxurious feel to it. The cost of original Chanderi saree starts from Rs. 5000.
Don’t forget to pick the above while in Madhya Pradesh.
